Oct 6, 2012 – Brittany, Normandy, Devon UK

Update from Devon – 6th October 2012
Greetings from the ‘English Riviera’ of Torbay.  If this name conjures up visions of balmy days with sunny skies, warm sea breezes, long sandy beaches, and lazy hours in a deckchair, then think again!  Blustery, cold winds, showers and occasional fine periods are more the order of the day, with us wrapped up in coats, hats and scarves, and bustling around the streets of Devon towns avoiding the rain.
We finally gave up on the Brittany Ferries from France, having spent three nights at St Pol de Leon, near Roscoff, waiting for news on the resumption of sailing after they cancelled everything following crew wildcat strikes.

There was no end in sight by Wednesday last week, so we drove up the coast to Le Havre in Normandy, staying a couple of nights in Honfleur, which has to be the prettiest town in northern France, with its cafés and shops in multi-coloured tall buildings lining the inner port quays.


We got a ferry from Le Havre to Portsmouth on Friday afternoon at 5.00pm, arriving in Portsmouth at 10.00pm, and our campsite at 11.00pm.  Saturday was spent shopping, stocking up on English things we had run out of like Marmite, almond butter, marmalade, etc. then we drove down to Devon on Sunday.  We are currently staying at a nice campsite halfway between Brixham and Dartmouth.
Nearby Paignton is Mike’s birthplace, so we have booked in here for a week, exploring the Torbay area using public transport.  Our (free) bus passes from London are also accepted here, so Monday was spent in Dartmouth, Tuesday in Torquay, and on Wednesday a cruise up the River Dart to Totnes, then a bus to Paignton, and a steam train back to Dartmouth.  We had to pay separately for the river cruise and the steam train, but the rest was ‘gratis’ – excellent.


The river cruise was very interesting and picturesque, with a witty commentary from the Captain describing the shipping, villages and the rich and famous at large country house estates (like Agatha Christie’s home) and even a vineyard.  Of the wild-life around, we saw a family of seals basking on a pontoon in the river, plus dozens of pheasants in the fields, snapping up the bugs after the harvest.   (We have enjoyed some genuine Cornish pasties for lunch this week, and Jan is now looking out for pheasant pie at our next pub lunch).  We also noticed the countryside is extra green after the south of France, and the contrast with the red earth of Devon in the newly ploughed fields can be quite startling.

The one really fine day we had on Thursday we walked to Dartmouth Castle at the mouth of the river – a very pleasant wander along cobbled streets, then tree lined lanes with water views.  We enjoyed a coffee in the sunshine at the castle café before going back to Dartmouth by ferryboat, and a very tasty fish & chip lunch.


We will be heading back to London next week (via Bristol and Bath) where we will be staying at a campsite near Redhill in Surrey for 3 weeks while we sort out appointments etc., then a further 3 weeks at a site near Greenwich.  We may even fit in a theatre visit or two if we find something of interest, and quite possibly some crispy duck again at some stage!.  One confirmed date is to visit the motorhome show in Birmingham (by train) on 18th October.

The plan after that in mid-November is to head south to Portugal and Spain to hide out the winter.  More news on that nearer the time, when we get things organised.
Meanwhile, it would be nice to receive some reciprocal updates from folks at home with their activities and trip reports perhaps?

Footnote – we’ve decided our mission in life whilst here in Europe is to ruthlessly seek out the best chocolate eclairs in the market.  We have already started the process through the south of France, Bordeaux and Brittany, and the best so far? – a small patisserie in Quiberon.

   

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